Frequently coloring your hair with permanent dyes (both at home or a salon) is a harsh process that can damage hair and might pose health risks. The dyes contain potentially cancer-causing components. Many of them work using a system of hydrogen peroxide, ammonia or ethanolamines, and p-phenylenediamine.
The ammonia serves to pull apart layers of the hair’s protein so that the color can penetrate the shaft. It is an asthma irritant and potential endocrine disruptor, meaning it impacts our body’s normal hormonal functioning and signaling.
The hydrogen peroxide then bleaches the hair and enables p-phenylenediamine (the coloring agent) to become trapped in the hair. P-phenylenediamine is associated with cancer, congenital disabilities, skin irritation, blood and liver toxicity, and allergic reaction.
Other chemicals dyes may contain include toluene, which is linked to congenital disabilities and pregnancy loss, resorcinol (also an endocrine disruptor), and lead acetate, which is linked to neurotoxicity.
Naturally, scientists have been working on developing gentler processes to dye hair. A couple of years ago, a team created a hair dye that incorporates graphene instead of the toxic chemicals. However, graphene is an exotic material, and the color only worked for brown and black hair.
Fortunately, now a team from Illinois’ Northwestern University, led by postdoctoral fellow Claudia Battistella and Prof. Nathan Gianneschi, have found a way to use synthetic melanin – which is a much less exotic substance and can dye a broader range of hair colors.
Melanin is a group of natural pigments. It gives skin and hair its color. It begins to disappear from hair fibers as we age, leading to color loss and graying.
The new method works by depositing synthetic melanin on hair with mild heat and a small amount of ammonium hydroxide. The more ammonium hydroxide, the darker the hue. To achieve a red or golden shade, add a small amount of hydrogen peroxide. The color doesn’t penetrate the cuticle and is, therefore, less likely to cause damage. The color lasted for at least eighteen washes.
